A fair and common, if not easy, question I am asked is what
a typical day is like for me as a Peace Corps volunteer in Benin. Here is a description of one of mine,
but first a few caveats:
1.
Peace Corps service is different in every country
2.
There really is no typical day, honestly
3.
This particular day was busier than normal
4. Be prepared that this will
probably be fairly lengthy due to necessary explanations, translations, etc.
Ok, on y va.
Today I got up around 7:30, made coffee, and ate a Luna bar
for breakfast (no these are not sold in Benin, I have a generous family). I had agreed the day before to go to
the house of a teacher I know who lives near me to talk about the English club
he approached me about starting together.
I’d never been to his house before but lives in my quartier
(neighborhood) pretty close by. I know him from Tonri since he teaches both
there and in Pehunco. I walked
over to his house but he wasn’t there, so I went back home and did laundry for
an hour or so while I listened to a podcast. I tried again and he was home, so we sat and talked and
settled on the days and times for English club (we’re going to try two separate
times for older and younger students), and how the club would run. I applied for and just picked up from
the post office in Parakou a free box of books from an NGO from Connecticut
that included easy reading and kids’ science books in English. So, my suggestion was to review concepts
the students are learning in class during the first half of the club session
and to do more fun activities and practice reading during the second half (well
ok so honestly probably more like looking at the pictures). He agreed. So then the teacher told me about an ONG (NGO in French)
he’s starting to promote education and encourage parents to send their kids to
school (elementary school is free but parents often don’t send their kids to
school so that they can work in the fields or because they don’t see the value
of education). He has a friend at
the mayor’s office that he says has an education related promotional video, in
Bariba, that we can use. His idea
was to show that video in Tonri as it’s the beginning of the school year and
because CEG Tonri still needs more students to enroll. I was totally for it – a movie in
Tonri, a village without electricity (we’d use a generator), would definitely
attract people, and if they happen to be swayed even a little that’d be
great.
Lunch
time. I made a tuna fish sandwich
and ate that and bananas, then read for a while (Tortilla Flat by Steinbeck, it
was ok). Noon to 3:00 is repos
(rest time), which means that Pehunco gets a slight ghost town feel and not
much work is done. At 3:00 I went
to talk to my homologue about a latrine-building project he brought up recently
and I happened to mention the Tonri movie idea. Oh, he goes, well I have a projector that you could
use. Awesome! We talk for a little
bit, but we were trying to find something online and his internet key wasn’t
working, so he says ca te plait d’aller à Gnemasson? (would you like to go to
Gnemasson?). Ok, sure. Gnemasson is a village 23 k from
Pehunco on the road to Kerou (north of Pehunco). He was going there with coworkers from Plan Benin (an NGO he
works with) who were here from Nati and wanted to do a site visit and talk to
some of the kids who have sponsors through Plan. Plan is an international ONG that works to combat child
trafficking and to promote children’s rights, etc, something like that. As an added bonus, the guys from Nati came here in an air
conditioned Plan SUV so we got to take that to Gnemasson. There’s a new volunteer there this year
who will be teaching English at the CEG, so I called him and he met up with us
when we got there. We went around
to a few families and then drove back to Pehunco.
I
biked home from my homologue’s office, took a shower (bucket), and then ate
pate and soy cheese with my concession sister. The family generally watches TV every night, assuming
there’s electricity; I don’t always join them but I did tonight and it proved
to be a good choice. First we
watched what seemed to be an African Christian channel (the family is Muslim)
that was showing music videos.
They really liked this channel so we watched it for a while. One of the songs got to me, and I don’t
mean touched me deep down. I had
to try really hard to keep a straight face and not bust out laughing, which was
doubly difficult because no one else was at all amused by the video. Let me set the stage. An African woman is lip-syncing to a
religious song in French on a beach, spliced with shots of her standing on a
staircase. The camera zooms in so
that the shot shows her mouth only and then out again, over and over,
dizzyingly fast. Every few seconds
you see clips of what seems to be a 70s era religious movie with men wearing
long robes and sandals, just sort of you know…thrown in there. Then it was time for Shree, an Indian
soap opera produced in English and dubbed over in French. Man oh man, this one was intense. There’s an evil woman that is trying to
sabotage the family and fooling people by taking on the form of other
people. Devils and children with
magic powers and Diwali all rolled into one 30 minute episode. Lots of prolonged shots of characters’
faces contorted with emotion and dramatic music. Also, saris.
And
then I went to bed.
Molly, thank you for the post! I lived in Gnemasson for 8 months before moving to Bembereke for the rest of my service in 1998. It's amazing to learn there's a CEG in Gnema there now. They had only had an ecole primaire back then. I'm often wondering who's still around. The Madame Djodis? Tounkara, the midwife? Hope all's well in Pehunco and the outlying villages. I miss the bike rides from Gnema to Pehunco and Doh.
ReplyDeleteDu courage!
Erica (Nyaki, baature)